[Tigger]

Has anyone retrofitted 8V Brake Ducts on an 8P?

I'm looking to get some extra cooling onto the front discs on track. The 8V Brake Duct Kit looks relatively easy to fit (cable ties), and they're relatively cheap.

Any advice, or alternatives to go for?



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[RS3Dell]

Has anyone retrofitted 8V Brake Ducts on an 8P?

I'm looking to get some extra cooling onto the front discs on track. The 8V Brake Duct Kit looks relatively easy to fit (cable ties), and they're relatively cheap.

Any advice, or alternatives to go for?



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If you haven't already done so I've removed all the splash guards to get more air and dissipate the heat build up from the discs while I'm on track.

I'm also running 8v 8pots with 350mm rear discs on my 8P which does help a lot.

I've not looked into the 8v ducts due to the wishbone fitting and we already have ducts fitted.

More brake cooling is required tbh.

Dell.

[Tigger]

If you haven't already done so I've removed all the splash guards to get more air and dissipate the heat build up from the discs while I'm on track.

...

More brake cooling is required tbh.

Dell.

Thanks. I'm definitely going to look at removing the splash guards. You've mentioned that before, on another of my posts and I made a note of it then.

Heat is becoming a real issue as my skills improve on track, and I don't really want to back off and brake less aggressively. I measured my discs at 650c in the pits after a track session. Pretty darned hot.

Higher temp brake pads are definitely needed for my next outing. I have run EBC Bluestuff before, but they wear VERY quickly once the temp exceeds 500c. I'd probably need two sets of those for a full day on track.

I met an EBC Race Tech at Goodwood FOS, and talked to them about the high wear rate on the Bluestuff pads. They have recommended their EBC RP-1 or RP-X pads. They are good up to 750c and the pad wear rate is consistent across the temperature range up to that temp.

I melted the piston boots too, so I need to get them refurbed at some point. I'm looking to fit HEL carbon fibre brake shims behind the EBC pads as they will provide better protection for the boots as the temp transfer through the carbon fibre shims is much, much lower than through steel or titanium shims.

https://auto.helperf...s3-8p-2011-2012

And I also melted the connector that connects the brake wear sensor cable to the loom, so some heatsleeve/firesleeve protection is also needed to protect the cables and connectors for the brake wear sensor and the ABS sensor.

The brake lines have already been upgraded to Tarox braided lines.

So with all that, ducting is also of interest.

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[RS3Dell]

Thanks. I'm definitely going to look at removing the splash guards. You've mentioned that before, on another of my posts and I made a note of it then.

Heat is becoming a real issue as my skills improve on track, and I don't really want to back off and brake less aggressively. I measured my discs at 650c in the pits after a track session. Pretty darned hot.

Higher temp brake pads are definitely needed for my next outing. I have run EBC Bluestuff before, but they wear VERY quickly once the temp exceeds 500c. I'd probably need two sets of those for a full day on track.

I met an EBC Race Tech at Goodwood FOS, and talked to them about the high wear rate on the Bluestuff pads. They have recommended their EBC RP-1 or RP-X pads. They are good up to 750c and the pad wear rate is consistent across the temperature range up to that temp.

I melted the piston boots too, so I need to get them refurbed at some point. I'm looking to fit HEL carbon fibre brake shims behind the EBC pads as they will provide better protection for the boots as the temp transfer through the carbon fibre shims is much, much lower than through steel or titanium shims.

https://auto.helperf...s3-8p-2011-2012

And I also melted the connector that connects the brake wear sensor cable to the loom, so some heatsleeve/firesleeve protection is also needed to protect the cables and connectors for the brake wear sensor and the ABS sensor.

The brake lines have already been upgraded to Tarox braided lines.

So with all that, ducting is also of interest.

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When I removed the splash guards I used gold heat reflective tape to protect the HEL brake lines,abs wiring and plugs adjacent to the disc above the hubs.

I'm running PBS prorace on the front with protrack in the rears,the prorace are rated up to 800'C up to yet these are my preferred pads for road/track.As for wear the pads last for two full trackdays at Bedford autodrome which is normally 125 miles per day plus some road mileage.

Let me know how you get on with fitting the 8v brake cooling ducts.

[Tigger]

Let me know how you get on with fitting the 8v brake cooling ducts.

I'm replying a year later. Apologies!

Instead of taking a chance on the ducts I decided to use better components to handle the temperatures as I really don't want to slow down.

Pads: EBC RPX, EBC RP1

Fluid: Super DOT 4 (Motul RBF 660)

Shielding: Design Engineering Firewrap 3000 (on the brake hoses).

I tried the RPX pads first. I liked them a lot. Great straight away into the first heavy breaking zone, then they got better and better. Quite noisy, i.e they growl at the end of the braking phase and they squeak if you brake lightly (e.g, to settle the car before a fast corner). Good overall. I got 3 track days out of them. They wore down to 3mm at the front of the pads, 4mm at the back. That's them done.

Next, I tried the RP1 pads. Also, good. Not quite as good into the first heavy breaking zone as the RPX pads were as they need a bit more temperature in them before they really switched on, but once they're there, great. Not as noisy as the RPX pads but only slightly. No squeaking. Again, good overall. I got 3 track days out of these as well. Identical wear. i.e., they wore down to 3mm at the front of the pads, 4mm at the back. That's them done too.

Tracks days were about 60 laps of Goodwood, about 50 laps of Croft, and about 40 laps of Silverstone GP. Done in 2 / 3 lap stints over a whole day.

I'm OK with that wear rate.

There were no issues with fading, no long/spongy pedal, and no difference in braking performance. Solid all day long.

The OEM discs and OEM calipers got a roasting. Lots of paint flaking off the calipers and the piston (dust) boots were destroyed. The rotors. Not much wear showing, but you can clearly see they got very hot, so much so that I got a concerned call from the Audi garage during a recent health check to ask what I'd been doing.

After speaking to some of the race teams that were at the track days, and the ARDS instructors, the advice was to talk to AP Racing.

So I did.

Pro 5000 R race calipers and floating 378 x 36 mm J hook discs look just the ticket to sort that out, together with some anti-rattle clips to make the daily drive palatable.

Looking at stiffer springs, stiffer ARBs, better bushes, and a cross brace for the front end, not to mention different wheels to take the BBK.

Looking at 18" Compomotive TH2 wheels so I can run on 235/40 R18 tyres all round.

Looking at better (adjustable) suspension too.

Remind me again why we all thought it would be a good idea to take our road cars out on race track?

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