Does anyone know where you can get the Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacer kits with the extended bolts?
If not a decent place for the just the spacer and i will get bolts from a stainless steel fitting company to the right grade.
Does anyone know where you can get the Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacer kits with the extended bolts?
If not a decent place for the just the spacer and i will get bolts from a stainless steel fitting company to the right grade.
I've had a spacer for years & never fitted it (although I did start once). Bought it from Ebay. Too far back to find in history, but I think it was these guys: https://www.ebay.com...=p2047675.l2563
They don'y have a listing for the 5 cylinder at present, so maybe send them a message. In any case, my seller sent me the spacer with a gasket & the longer bolts for not much more money.
EDIT: I found the package & it was actually Youngtimers Motorsport out of Poland that supplied the spacer, gasket & longer bolts. This appears to be the basic spacer, I requested the other items. https://yt-motorspor...r-audi-2-5-tfsi. This is for my CEPA engine. You will need to confirm if fits your engine (DAZA?).
I had/have some concerns around modifying the hard fuel line. Discussion about that is here:
https://www.ttforum....989659#p8989659
I think this could be a very good mod given how much timing is pulled when IAT's climb. Keen to hear of your success.
Cheers,
Leon
Edited by AusTTRS, 11 August 2021 - 01:16 AM.
Thanks for the post Leon. It’s a shame the tuner thinks the job is too big for the gain and agrees it’s not ideal trying to bend the pipe work. It is possible because they know a company that provide a bespoke fuel rail with the correct pipe work, but this comes in at nearly £2.5k so out of the equation.
I think we will just hope the multipoint WMI helps and if not good enough i will be looking at better venting and a bespoke aluminium radiator. I’m sure at some point I’ll change the radiator anyway and would consider other ideas. Shame there’s no room in the engine bay for a charge cooler which I’ve used with good results previously.
How are the inlet temps looking ? I cant see you having much of an issue with wmi
How are the inlet temps looking ? I cant see you having much of an issue with wmi
Thanks for the post Leon. It’s a shame the tuner thinks the job is too big for the gain and agrees it’s not ideal trying to bend the pipe work. It is possible because they know a company that provide a bespoke fuel rail with the correct pipe work, but this comes in at nearly £2.5k so out of the equation.
I think we will just hope the multipoint WMI helps and if not good enough i will be looking at better venting and a bespoke aluminium radiator. I’m sure at some point I’ll change the radiator anyway and would consider other ideas. Shame there’s no room in the engine bay for a charge cooler which I’ve used with good results previously.
Edited by AusTTRS, 11 August 2021 - 01:16 AM.
is pumped from the windscreen washer bottle.
that takes me back! in the days before intercoolers water injection used to be THE way of preventing detonation. We pumped it from the washer bottle too.
It was made by the same company that supplied the the nitrous systems we used to overcome the turbo lag with the high boost pressures.
It is not really the temperature of the fluid that matters it is how much heat it draws when it evaporates (latent heat of evaporation) that does the heavy lifting. The trick is keeping it a liquid until the last minute
that takes me back! in the days before intercoolers water injection used to be THE way of preventing detonation. We pumped it from the washer bottle too.
It was made by the same company that supplied the the nitrous systems we used to overcome the turbo lag with the high boost pressures.
It is not really the temperature of the fluid that matters it is how much heat it draws when it evaporates (latent heat of evaporation) that does the heavy lifting. The trick is keeping it a liquid until the last minute
Yes I remember those days with Aquamist water injection and Wizards of NOS nitrous kits.
It was Hatton Enterprises we used. They imported Marvin Miller NOS and their own in house water injection was called 'Aquaboost'. It was this system that Aquamist copied and made a success of
I only realised how effective water was when the washer bottle ran dry and it put a piston through the side of the block on one of the cars
Edited by flybynite, 11 August 2021 - 07:33 PM.
It is not really the temperature of the fluid that matters it is how much heat it draws when it evaporates (latent heat of evaporation) that does the heavy lifting. The trick is keeping it a liquid until the last minute
Yes, that ^ is very true.
The only reason I bought up the heat of the methanol was in the context of this thread. Mine sprays just before one of the two IAT sensors that help determine how much timing the ECU is going to pull from my engine. A phenolic spacer is one way to help reduce IAT's. Spraying cold methanol onto a sensor would be another. My warm/hot meth hitting the sensor isn't doing me any favours. Sometimes at the track I'll pull the meth out of the ice filled cooler & add that to the tank before a session.